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What is sensitive skin?
It is “skin prone to reactions, either irritant or allergic,” says Dr. Vermen M. Verallo-Rowell, founder of VMV Hypoallergenics. “Irritant reactions occur on just about everyone, say, from a strong cosmetic ingredient (example: hydroquinone or sunscreen preservatives). Allergic reactions are repeatable and occur among those truly sensitive. They will react even to a small does of the allergen (example: perfume, dyes, etc.),” she elaborates.

Researchers at Estee Lauder International describe it as skin that reacts easily and routinely to environmental stimuli that do not appear to trouble average skin—the skin may tingle, redden, itch or even hurt.

What causes it?
Says Dr. Daniel Macs, Estee Lauder’s vice president for research, the culprits are “stimuli like chemical compounds, microorganisms, stress, diet, alcohol or lack of sleep.” Dr. Catherine Bombal, head of Clarins Communications cites pollution (exhaust fumes, industrial smoke) as a major cause, as well as smoking, spicy foods, stress and fatigue.

Dr. Verallo-Rowell thinks Filipinos are especially prone to sensitive skin because of our environment. “Irritant reactions are very common even if you’re not allergic but are exposed to environmental pollutants. The sun, heat and humidity, together with indoor heat and light (computers, fluorescent lights, TV monitors, cooking heat) stimulate many of these chemical reactions on the skin. Even household products like insecticides, cosmetics and skincare products or perfume can cause it. Tap water could contribute to irritation if it is polluted.”

Why does it occur?
Our skin serves as a barrier to harmful outside elements. Under normal circumstances, the skin’s barrier is restored by the body easily and rapidly. People with sensitive skin have an impaired barrier function—there aren’t enough lipids in the top layers of the skin to hold the cells together in a solid defensive wall that keeps potential irritants out and vital moisture in. Chemicals and microorganisms are able to cause a reaction, which could be irritation or allergic skin’s reaction that has developed over time. Irritation is the visible manifestation that the body has sent immune cells in search of the cause of irritation.

Is breakout-prone skin the same as sensitive skin?
Says Dr. Verallo-Rowell, “Strictly speaking, no. Pimples appear due to different mechanisms ranging from cosmetic oil clogging of pores (Comedone Acne), fluoride and other halogen compounds, often causing Perioral Acne (appearing in and around the mouth areas often caused by commercial toothpaste ingredients) or acne due to stress, hormones or certain foods.”

What should you do?
Dr. Verallo-Rowell recommends seeing a dermatologist to get a patch test (identifies the cause of sensitivity and what exactly to avoid) in addition to the regular skin evaluation.

Of course the products you use must not contribute to the problem. She stands by her 20-year old line of VMV products, the first accredited hypoallergenic brand of purely Asian formulation. She says VMV is a result of “rigid research and testings. Hypoallergenicity is guaranteed in deleting the top ten allergens (like perfume, lanolin, propylene glycol formaldehyde, parabeas, metals like nickel, rubber ingredients, antiseptics, most preservatives, plastics, detergents, adhesives and bleaching agents) in all our product formulations.”

Estee Lauder Research and Development Laboratories have engineered breakthrough technologies to create Verite, a complete skincare line with no emulsifiers and surfactants, which are known irritants. Verite instead uses a patented oat extract that binds to immune receptors to block out any allergice or sensitive response.

Until then, it was impossible to create a cleanser without an emulsifier, so no matter what non-irritating products someone with sensitive skin used, she would still react to the cleanser. Dye, perfume, and alcohol-free, Verite also claims to rebuild the skin’s barrier and reduce reactivity with anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-oxidant and anti-aging ingredients.

Clarins has also created the Gentle Treatment Range for sensitive skin, with products that come in, “lightweight, creamy cocoon textures” said to “soothe, rebalance, restructure and protect while repairing skin.” Dr. Bombal also suggests that those with sensitive skin:

• Adopt a rigorous beauty routine, wash their hands thoroughly before applying treatments, and avoid toiletry flannels, which can be irritating and avoid touching the face.
• Adopt a healthy lifestyle, have a balanced diet, exercise, moderate consumption of alcohol and cigarettes.
• Avoid contact with potential irritants such as alkaline products, alcohol, very hard water and detergents.